- Go back out re-shoot ‘fences’ with film ‘IN’ the camera this time.
- Finish off the 3D camera roll and develop it.
- Create the images and prepare two files to send off to Bowhaus to make me LVT’s.
- Prepare to teach class Friday and Saturday.
- Do research on Mural Prints, getting ready for my printing workshop on the 17th and 18th (Week 11)
- Work on website www.pierrechemaly.com
- Go down to Hollywood to Freestyle Photo to purchase some film and Kodak HC-110.
- Darkroom work, start printing.
Went back out and retraced my steps to re-photograph some of the images I missed by not having film in the camera, it’s nice to be reminded -once in a while- that I am not perfect. This time I could think about the images more than the first time. There is something about re-turning to re-photograph something a few days later. Used on roll of the expired Kodak Tri-X 5063 form the 1978 100ft roll. I will develop in D76, I read online that someone had developed it using Kodak HC-110. I have not used this developer, however it has a restrainer, and he mentioned that even though the film was from 1973, the restrainer cut the base fog way down. So I will develop with D76 and if Base and fog is too high, I will develop the next roll with Kodak HC-110.
Developed the film at 68°F Kodak (Tri-X 5063) Developed as recommended by Kodak for 8 minutes. (look for the Tri-X 5063, there are other emulsions listed as well with different developing times) Used stop bath for 30 seconds, Fixed with Kodafix 1:3 for 5 minutes. Washed for 10minutes final rinse with photoflood (Kodak brand) use photoflood as recommended 1:200. Too much will cause a oily film on the base and emulsion.
Exposure looks very good. Good highlight and shadow detail. The base fog is high, however, I am VERY happy with the results. These negatives will scan very well. I think my next roll I will expose at 250ASA instead of 125 and I will decrease development time down to 7minutes from recommended 8. I will also buy some HC-110 and see if the fog level goes down. I hope to do some analogue fibre based prints later on to see how the negs will print with a high base fog. Very exciting. to see images on film that expired in 1978, I was 21 when that film was made. What a time warp. Digi people have no idea what they are missing.
Went down to Freestyle photo to buy some HC-110, this developer is no longer available in small quantity, and the litre bottle is around $35, I decided against it, as I will use split grade printing and with this method, any negative can be printed, I use mainly two developers, Kodak D-76 and Rodinal. If I run out of D-76 I use the Rodinal, it has a very long shelf life, so an open bottle can last two years, as a backup/emergency it is the ideal developer. I also use their paper developer for the same reason (it’s shelf life opened/unmixed is very stable) and will be using the paper developer this week to make some test prints. (which I bought in Dec/Jan 2019. I am highly considering making my own prints for the FMP. So split grade testing will be made this week. I bought some film HP5+, and 25 sheets of Foma (8X10) 111 a bright, double weight, fiber base paper to run some tests.
Contacted Bowhaus, spoke to Joe, he makes the LVT’s. I sent in two files (large TIFF format) to have the LVT’s made for the Mural Printing Workshop this week end. Turn around is normally 10 days, however they will rush it and get them done by Wed/Thurs of this week. (I will have the LVT’s made with a black surround, D-max) so that I can have a white border around the image, because I consulted with Andrew the instructor, and he mentioned that with the Mural Prints there is no cropping.
A high density around the image, is therefore crucial, this way it will print a white border and I will crop by almost filling the frame with the image, then the d-max of the neg around the image will act as the easel, giving me a white border.
It will be interesting to see how Andrew determines the correct exposure for the negative for such a large print (48×70) inches. I will see if he uses split grade or not. Paper at that size is very expensive, so there is no test printing, by the time one makes the print it got to be well exposed, either using test strips, or other methods.
Taught the workshop Friday and Saturday. 4 students.
Taught the basics of lighting, 3 and 5 point using LED and Tungsten continuous light. Used the BMCC 4K camera where they could light the actor then film them. Each had the opportunity to light and film the actor. By then end of the workshop, they were setting up the camera, lights, making images and packing all the equipment away.
My website is moving along. I like the simple clean approach, simple to navigate with a limited amount of information on the page. And even though the design is simple, it is difficult to get the images in WordPress to function correctly. So I have the basic website set up in the form I like. [Side navigation] A lot of artists/ photographers like this for some reason, and I do as well. maybe it’s from reading: Eyes move left to right? So text on left, images on the right.
Went down to Bowhaus and picked up my LVT. The film negative of the file looks fantastic. The image is on 4×5 sheet film the contrast is very good between the highlights and the shadows, the image was printed with a d-max border as requested, and the images will print with a white border.
While at the Bowhaus, I saw some very big prints 50″x75″ of the work by David Yarrow who does wildlife photography. Even though the digital ink jet prints look very good, it’s not at the level of an analogue print just yet for me. So, having looked at these prints, helped me make up my mind to proceed with silver gelatin printing, and to print my own images for the FMP.
Went down to Freestyle Photo in Hollywood, bought some 120 Bergger film, will be doing some image making this weekend for my next 1-2-1 with Dr. Wendy. I bought a 100 sheets of Ilford Multigrade Fibre Base 5×7 to start fine tuning my printing skills in my dark room. While at Free Style, I saw a 16×20 B+W print by master printer Marc Valesella, It was printed on Ilford Warm Tone Fibre paper and the image looked amazing, I will most probably use this paper for my FMP prints, however I will still be running tests on both Ilford paper stocks, to see if I like the white or the warm tone.
Booked my Bungalow for Saturday night in Silver Lake, close to Downtown Los Angeles where I will take the mural printing workshop on Saturday and Sunday. I look very forward to printing my images on photographic paper and see how they turn out from the LVT.
Did analogue printing this week with the Ilford Paper bought from Freestyle Photo. I did some tests earlier with RC and the quality of the medium and the surface texture is just not the same. I know this, but tested anyway. RC is a good student paper to practice on nothing more. I will therefore print all my images on fiber base paper. The only problem is to get them flat. Without buying a very expensive press this is going to be a challenge. I did contact Marc Valesella, to ask him what his method is as I have seen his work. Very flat for a fiber print.
3D did not get to process the 120 roll of 3D images this week. I will get to it next week after the Mural Workshop this coming week end.
I applied to the Los Angeles Art Association for membership, had to send in an artist statement and 5 images. I did that and received an email that I had been juiced and accepted into the LAAA as a member. I will pay the dues, and find out if I can have my FMP at the Gallery 825 on La Brea. The heart of the arts district, where I have been visiting galleries with my Art History Class at UCLA.
A few images I sent in:
The last one I created this module. I will be printing this one in the Mural Workshop this coming week-end.
Kodak Development Chart for Tri-X 5063 http://wwwuk.kodak.com/global/en/service/faqs/faq0034.shtml
Freestyle Photographic Supply: https://www.freestylephoto.biz
David Yarrow https://davidyarrow.photography
Marc Valesella http://www.marcvalesella.com/index.html